Anyone running 3S LiPo on 2wd Torment?

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Chuckstasy

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Anyone running 3S LiPo on a 2wd Torment?
If so, please let me which motor/esc/pinion/spur you’re using and if you’re getting any heat issues. Wanting some inspiration for the next upgrade :)
 
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@Chuckstasy gearing is going to be very subjective. If you get a bunch of gearing ratios from users that are doing speed runs and you're looking to bash then those ratios are useless to you and will likely only cause damage.

Probably best to share with us what you're trying to achieve.
 
That’s a great point @WoodiE - I’m mainly bashing but wanting to get some good top end too.

Hoping to run the system at:
- 75% throttle limit for bashing and long run times to while keeping everything cool/warm
- 100% throttle limit for shorter speed runs on flat grass and road
 
I had a torment that I ran on 3s for a long time and I never had heat issues after I got it geared. 15t pinion was a lot of tweaking and shaving on the transmission. Look for a crawler motor posibly, but I have never ran one in a sc truck I don’t know what would happen. Just make sure it is 3s rated(esc too) get a motor LESS that 3000kv I had a 3000kv and it was a long journey of adjustments and broken parts.

By the way no matter what car you have (in the 10th scale line obviously) without getting a big hunk of motor and battery which will break your car a lot more—with a 540 size motor(common for 1/10 scales)will not normally get you above 45mph with proper gearing. **That’s with 2cell lipo. I currently run 4000kv_70amp esc 3s compatable_4400mah 90c shorty 2s_racing setup

^^BUT^^ one thing I loved about the 3s is RUNTIME I had that 3000kv running during 90° Weather topping out on 120° temps. I loved it I could run for an hour easily on that battery with 1 full charge.

All I have to say is do what you think is the best for you because that’s what I did but you will always have risks. Just have fun with it rc cars a pretty tough. Look for RPM a arms to replace stock.

One question: do you have the metal transmission upgrade?
If you do not: I would probably get one and replace the idler and the other little one with metal but leave the big diff if it’s in good shape. I currently run this set up and a lot of racing vehicles have this and mine hasn’t broken yet and I don’t treat it very nicely considering I do race with it surprising lot it does keep up with the big brands quite well.

Traxxas turnbuckles would be a good upgrade for rigidity instead of the flimsy stock non adjustable links.

But hopefully some of this helped have fun!
 
Thanks @KyleRC ... I currently have:
  • RPM front and rear A arms
  • RPM front and rear knuckles
  • Traxxas turnbuckles
  • Hot racing steel driveshafts
  • Hot racing bellcrank/servo saver
Next on the list is the ECX metal transmission hop up and probably a locked diff.

I was actually looking at running this setup on 3S:

Hobbywing 3300kv / 60a Max10 ESC combo
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/252922708373

I mainly use the truck for bashing and will do a small amount of track. Wanting to get big tyres soon (about the same size ones as the ruckus) and wanting a lot of speed, hence the 3S. My main concern is heat as i don't want to sacrifice run times.
 
@KyleRC You mentioned a long journey of adjustments and broken parts with 3S@3000kv. What sort of problems did u run into? Ive only ever gone down to a 16T. Would definitely need to break out the dremel for 15T!

I think I've decided on a 120a Hobbywing ESC which is super cheap atm and just a cheapy GoolRC 3000KV 540 motor for now. Im hoping this will give me speed, runtime and keep everything cool while bashing.
 
3s batteries are typically heavier so more stress on parts. There is usually a lot more power electrically and physically from the motor. Some servos and receivers can be effected. I have destroyed plenty of metal transmissions, just make sure you use lighter wheels and tires. Using 3s just makes the car feel “lazy” in my opinion from the high center of mass. Axles are annoying. I use the $64 traxxas ones and never broke parts on them but I am usually pretty easy on my cars.
Adjustments:
I had to shave plastic by or on the transmission for smaller pinion gears.
I cut a small section off my esc plate and turned it around back wards for big battery space. With the tall lipos specifically. Most adjustments just take a little time and thought but it’s all up to what you want as the driver.
 
My 3s lipo already fits perfectly without modification (slightly longer than stock) and ive already got steel axles so i guess metal transmission/gears and small pinion will hopefully do the trick. Ive ordered it all, hopefully not too many dramas!!

I can picture what you mean by "lazy" with the extra weight and would imagine this would be very annoying on the track. Mainly for bashing so runtimes are more important for me.

Will post updates on the build!
 
KyleRC said:
I had a torment that I ran on 3s for a long time and I never had heat issues after I got it geared. 15t pinion was a lot of tweaking and shaving on the transmission. Look for a crawler motor posibly, but I have never ran one in a sc truck I don’t know what would happen. Just make sure it is 3s rated(esc too) get a motor LESS that 3000kv I had a 3000kv and it was a long journey of adjustments and broken parts.

By the way no matter what car you have (in the 10th scale line obviously) without getting a big hunk of motor and battery which will break your car a lot more—with a 540 size motor(common for 1/10 scales)will not normally get you above 45mph with proper gearing. **That’s with 2cell lipo. I currently run 4000kv_70amp esc 3s compatable_4400mah 90c shorty 2s_racing setup

^^BUT^^ one thing I loved about the 3s is RUNTIME I had that 3000kv running during 90° Weather topping out on 120° temps. I loved it I could run for an hour easily on that battery with 1 full charge.

All I have to say is do what you think is the best for you because that’s what I did but you will always have risks. Just have fun with it rc cars a pretty tough. Look for RPM a arms to replace stock.

One question: do you have the metal transmission upgrade?
If you do not: I would probably get one and replace the idler and the other little one with metal but leave the big diff if it’s in good shape. I currently run this set up and a lot of racing vehicles have this and mine hasn’t broken yet and I don’t treat it very nicely considering I do race with it surprising lot it does keep up with the big brands quite well.

Traxxas turnbuckles would be a good upgrade for rigidity instead of the flimsy stock non adjustable links.

But hopefully some of this helped have fun!
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What's your YouTube name, if you don't mine me asking. I'll be posting more videos soon with my son as well.
 

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