Do I risk breaking my AMP if I use a lipo

[zderekv]

You are right but you are so wrong at the same time.
20C 1800mah my son got with his ruckus, he used it twice before his 5200mah 20C battery turned up. 35C Burst won't deliver more than the motor will want to draw. Current is all dependant on the motor not the battery. The reason a lipo add pep is because it can deliver the current longer without voltage sag, unlike the nimh batteries. The reason the stock 1800mah lipo sags is because it is 1800mah not because it is 20C.
20C would be fine if its a 5000mah (5000mah x 20C = 100Amps) which the amp mt's brushed motor will never pull.

Listen to i_r_beej what he said was perfect.

If you read my post you’ll see I made no mention of the electronics not being able to handle the power. It’s 7.4 volts. I guess I’m still learning the whole science behind battery technology. I’d still be concerned with those plastic tranny gears though.

 

[Real_sparky]

My other sons Amp is still running Plastic gears, he is using 5200mah 20C lipo also. We have the slipper clutch set loose and he has learnt to get off the throttle when jumping. He is also running a brushless motor and still no stripped gears.
If you read my post properly you will notice its all about the battery not about the electronics.
20C is fine if your Capacity(mah) is high enough.

The current is dependent on the resistance of the motor. The motor doesn't get hot because of the "friction of the brushes" (from your post further up). It gets hot because of the current going through the motor. The current though the motor is dependent on the resistance of the windings.
Power= Volts x Current. Resistance=volts/current
So the power is not 7.4volts that is the voltage.
The more volts you push through the motor the more current you get and the more heat is produced for the same resistance.
Which is why the old drill motor i run in my Torment gets hot, when i run a 3s battery. It doesn't get hot when I run the 7 cell 3000mah Traxxas packs I have.

The C rating of the battery is determined by the internal resistance of the battery, the lower the resistance the higher the c rating as it can deliver current more efficiently

Not trying to be condescending, just trying to help

 

[Chuckstasy]

So to clarify, the C in 30C stands for Capacity. So max discharge rate of 30C 2000mAh = 60A. Max discharge rate of 30C 4000mAh = 120A.

This is the capability of the battery, but the system will only draw what needs. If your bottleneck is in your battery then lipo will make a notable difference. If your bottleneck is your motor then lipo will do nothing.

 

[zderekv]

Not trying to be condescending, just trying to help

Not condescending at all. Thank you for taking the time to explain.

I’ve run nitro Savages since 2002 so I’ve been around RC for quite some time but I’m new to electric vehicles. I have to admit, at first I thought you were giving bad advice but if you have actual experience running this setup (I do not. I started my upgrades from the drivetrain and worked my way out.) who am I to question. Personally, if it were me, I’d still spend the $25 on the metal gear set though. I just see it as good insurance.

Thanks again for breaking it down for an electric-noob

 

[Real_sparky]

Have the metal gear set sitting in the parts box
2 actually my torment is running plastic gear also
But the Ruckus is metal geared , have to with the big tyres
Metal drive shafts on their way too for the Ruckus
It’s an experiment to see how long they last

 

[i_r_beej]

@zderekv this will be a little like trying to take a sip from a firehose, but this is a GREAT resource for learning about battery technology without all the BS: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/

 

[zderekv]

Gratsi!

 

[RookieBasher_92]

You want to be carful with brushed motors as they get super hot cause of the friction from the brushes. I would recommend an inexpensive brushless combo for you to start out with, such as a GoolRc 3900KV. The problem with the AMP is you will have to buy a new radio (controller ) if and when you go brushless. The AMP is a great truck once it's all upgraded and a great starter for new RC'ers.

Weave what would you recommend as an option for a replacement controller? I just bought an AMP as my first RC and am okay with the stock control (for now), but wouldn't mind other opinions on preferred controllers? I have searched on YouTube and Google for input and so far have gotten pretty much zilch for an answer. Thanks!

 

[Real_sparky]

We bought a Flysky GT3C from Ebay, came with TX and RX, great radio and was only $50