Stock 2wd lipo vs nimh

[jtomlin1973]

Thinking about changing to 2s lipo instead of the nimh the truck came with. Would I expect to see any bump in power or quickness?

 

[X]

Depending on the C rating of the lipo, a little. More importantly though is the even power you get through the run of the battery. Nimh falls off quickly during runs and lifetime is usually shorter.

 

[xlDooM]

I felt my Amp was much faster on the LiPo, but when I measured its top speed the difference wasn't that big. It's really the take-off that's most improved, in addition to the lack of voltage sag that X mentioned.

The stock NiMH batteries are also not very high quality in my experience, both that I own are giving me some issues in charging (I have to ease some charge into it at low current before it will take charging at 1A).

 

[nimbuzz]

Good answers so far = a bit faster especially at end of charge. If you have stock electronics I doubt the esc has LVC = low voltage cut off which you must have or you'll ruin your battery--ask me how I know! Lithium packs cannot run out all the way like Nimh can and if you do it even once you can really damage your pack. LVC in the esc will cut off power when your pack gets to the danger point. Problem with the ECX systems they combine ESC and receiver so if you want to upgrade you must upgrade both.
Things to consider; The Amp is a great truck but to keep the price down many things are not strong. The Amp has weak steering and a faster truck can use stronger steering = metal gear hi torque servo and RPM servo saver eliminator 2--The motor over heats in 5-10 minutes = brushless motor. I tried to attach list but couldn't so here's a list;

--SERVOs The stock steering servo seems a bit under powered, to remedy simply upgrade the servo to something like these metal gear high torque. This is the first to get as a more powerful motor will need stronger steering.

--Futaba $36 --> Futaba S3305 Standard High-Torque Servo with Metal Gears
http://tinyurl.com/jkn3rbx
--Savox $35 Savox-SW-0231MG-Waterproof-High-Torque-STD-Digital-Servo http://tinyurl.com/z4dssrh

-- Hitec HS5645MG -- $38

--Inexpensive Servos - Power HD 1501MG, MG996R

**--I would also consider beefing up your steering with this --> http://tinyurl.com/gwvolcv

Install RPM Steering Thread -->https://ecxforum.com/threads/steering-linkage-design-issue.396/

THIS Kimbrough Servo Saver http://kimbroughracingproducts.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29909

On Amazon → http://tinyurl.com/gtocku4

Bearings - The bearings in the ECX AMP leave a bit to be desired, such as being sloppy and/or not very reliable. The easiest solution would be to pick up a FastEddyBearings ball bearing kit -- $14


If you're building the kit version of the ECX AMP I would buy these bearings at the same time and save yourself the work of going back and replacing the stock bearings.


--RPM Upgrades RPM is a great company making stronger parts for many cars incl Amp. I've used many of their things but not many for the Amp yet. If I break any Amp parts I will most likely replace it with RPM if they make that part. Usually if I break a part I order two but with RPM that is not necessary as it will probably not break again. Select 'ECX' and '2WD Ruckus' for Amp parts on RPM site as the trucks share many parts.

http://tinyurl.com/jkn3rbx Amp aftemarket mods below at end--Many RPM

--How to fix AMP steering linkage design issue
https://ecxforum.com/threads/how-to-fix-amp-steering-linkage-design-issue.422/

--Brushless Motors

--I have this one and like it*** This and the Orion are a special/weird new thing where the ESC is combined with the motor so it does not need to be soldered and uses less space--> Tazer Twin BL MOTOR/EXC Dynamite 3000KV https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynami...rushless-motor-system-3000kv-dyns1450/p474342 ***But it's too fast and needs a transmitter with EPA = End Point Adjustment to dial down the speed a bit for kids.


--Similar-->I’m interested in this one but haven't tried it yet but Orion is a famous high end company

Team Orion dDrive 540 4-Pole Sensorless Brushless Motor System w/Deans (2700kV) http://tinyurl.com/z3y2svk


These below are traditional separate ESC and motor systems that need to be soldered

--Very good Brushless motor system--> **CASTLE 3800 amain $106→ http://tinyurl.com/zlmzvpw


Hobby King is an upstart Australian company that came on the scene several years ago with cheap stuff that has gotten to be very good in some cases and has changed the industry.

Hobby King Brushless system proven by a friend with a Marin RC summer camp (ask me!) that has 6 of them running a lot 21.5 Turns = fast but not too fast--> http://tinyurl.com/huzbo8f


Nother = faster = 17.5 Turns--> http://tinyurl.com/zcnbbws

--Radio These have EPA

I have one hooked up to my TLR 22 and will have it next week Tx & Rx-->FS-GT3B $50 http://tinyurl.com/gllxyhr I researched and read an article on various models of this level of radio--I like it so far. The programming is cool and educational.


--Futaba--perhaps more reliable but no screen or programing --> http://tinyurl.com/j3gcfpd

 

[sc302]

Fwiw the stock torment does have a low voltage cut off provided you change the jumper to "lipo".

Go with a 2s 30c 5000mah and you will have plenty of play time. Don't forget to get a lipo charger.

 

[jtomlin1973]

Thanks for all the info. One other question regarding the ESC. How do I know how much power it can take without frying? Manual says it has an electric capacity of 30a/300a. Does that mean as long as I keep the c rating under 300a I'll be okay?

 

[nimbuzz]

That esc is probably good for regular 7.2 V brushed motors which can draw about 30 A--not sure about 7.4 Lipos and brushless?? And I don't know what the 300A thing is--may be a misprint. Others may know more...

 

[sc302]

Brushed esc won't handle a brushless motor, at least not stock esc. Brushless motors are 3 wire, brushed are 2 wire.

A 50 to 100c discharge rating won't matter much with the stock motor...it will pull what it needs when it needs it...I don't think you will find a 300+ 2s battery, I think it will be uncommon to see anything above 120 tbh.

 

[xlDooM]

Thanks for all the info. One other question regarding the ESC. How do I know how much power it can take without frying? Manual says it has an electric capacity of 30a/300a. Does that mean as long as I keep the c rating under 300a I'll be okay?

You'll only know it was too much after it has fried... lol.

The 30A is the continuous rating, 300A the burst rating. But sticker specs are only guidelines, indicating the grade of component you get. There is no such thing as continuous current draw in an RC, it's always spiky.

That said, the stock ESC should have the headroom to handle the LiPo with the stock motor. "Should" and "does" are different things, mind... You can always have a marginal one.

If your ESC has no jumpers or switches for LiPo cutoff, you need a low voltage buzzer. Older Torments didn't have the cutoff I believe.