What's your favorite 2wd steel drive shaft upgrade and why

Ruckuskiller43 said:
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I’ve already got the metal tranny pack. Shredded one of those already too. My rear axles are MIP x-duty hardened steel axles. It keeps snapping the cv pin after about 5 mins of use. I left the plastic spur in cause I was thinking if anything is going to fail in the tranny that would be the part. Nope it wasn’t. The teeth on the metal gears pulled a Houdini and disappeared. I love this truck when I actually get to drive it. Unfortunately since I put the Castle in its on the bench torn apart more than I get to drive it.
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Can you turn the punch down on your esc? That would help. Maybe turn your brakes down as well. Also nicer remotes allow you to adjust the throttle exponential. You can dial it to -20%. That will take some throttle out of the beginning of the trigger and put it at the back.
 
Jeb said:
Can you turn the punch down on your esc? That would help. Maybe turn your brakes down as well. Also nicer remotes allow you to adjust the throttle exponential. You can dial it to -20%. That will take some throttle out of the beginning of the trigger and put it at the back.
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I’m using the stock controller. I don’t have the connector for the computer. I guess I’m gonna have to get that too. Just had to order a high torque steering servo 2 mins ago cause my stock one poop the bed this morning when me and my son were out playing. I wheelie past his slash. He gets mad as hell that my trucks so much faster than his.
 
*Everyone drives different...but just so no one says I didn't say so...(this stuff is super important especially if you have not made any adjustments to the CC ESC)

^^(I keep forgetting to mention this super important fact to be aware of when running the MIP 10130 CVD's....."you may need to shim the outer axle before it enters the rear hub carrier bearings...which makes tightening the wheel/Axle nuts a bit difficult to get proper......Drive the model on a smooth surface for 2-3 full speed passes and bring the model back to you. You need to check if you OVER TIGHTENED the axle nuts!!" If you heat when you touch the rear wheel axle nut...you are too tight, loosen the nut 1/2 turn.)......I use blue locktite on these to keep them on.

-you should use caution with reverse..and the brakes.(commanding "ALL STOP/LOCK-UP or Spinning the tires in Reverse while moving forward strains components heavily).

-Do Not run your slipper clutch any tighter than one turn loosened from fully seated.(ALTHOUGH I CANNOT HEAR IT WORKING, IT IS WORKING!!!.....SEEN UPON DISASSEMBLY/WEAR ON THE PADS).

-you should also pay attention how hard you are on your differential...I am talking about "the turning and one wheel peels". Its best to use a thicker grease in the differential to slow the "ACTION"...this forces more power to both wheels instead of just one, allowing the model to drift out... the factory grease for the differential is like watery jelly. I blended a thicker automotive marine grade grease with it.

**I wanted to share with you some "settings in the Castle Link" that will help you alot.
-Throttle curve....click on the center of the linear line and curve it some so that you have more of a slow upwards curve(pull pointer towards bottom right corner of screen)*This gives you alot more trigger control for most of your driving.

-Set your start power on "LOW"

-Reverse on "35%"

-Brake power on "30%"

-Punch Control on "50%"(mind you I am running 3s 4106-4600kv)

-Torque Control on "5.0"(again, mind you I am using 3s and 4106-4600kv)

***START HERE AND ADD, SUBTRACT TO GET MORE USEABLE CONTROL OF YOUR SET-UP.
^^(just for the heck of it...wanted to say...my best speed run yet, I data logged a maximum amp draw of 113.8amps today and the motor spun the stock gearing 17/87 with smaller tires<Stock Traxxas Stampede 2wd 2.8" with Talons>>>>BALLOONING UP at 98,157 rpm.....LMAO...it also states 1.685Hp.) haha
 
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weave said:
This is what you will need. 18 dollars for the spur and 48 for the axles at Hot Racing
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I just got 81t spur from hot racing but now pinion doesn't reach spur no matter how much i adjust ...any thoughts?
 
Ruck, that pinion is not hardened steel. Hardened steel pinion and spur plus hardened differential gears will not strip like that. There's a difference between steel gearing and hardened steel gearing.
 
I'm getting mixed reviews between the 3 types of hot racing drive shafts for the torment. I snapped a plastic cv and thought I will upgrade to steel cv's and drive shafts, but which one? Anyone with more feedback since the last post in this thread?
 
Ruckuskiller43 said:
View attachment 2769
...........Unfortunately since I put the Castle in its on the bench torn apart more than I get to drive it.
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I watch a lot of you tube RC reviewers, and there is that common response of the Castle brand motors have the most cogging. I am wondering with the power to the wheels and cogging and setup in ESC, is probably the reason for the shredding of gears.
I am not a firm believer of Castle products. I use to want to get them, I drewled over their products, but after the reviews I have read and heard. This guy will not be spending that kind of money on them.

Back to the subject at hand, I too never decided on which steel axles I wanted to use. I just fought through twisting, braking the plastic ones. I noticed a full, brand new everything did find for me, but I was using 2s Lipo and a 3800kv sensorless motor. I ran loose, packed dirt tracks and clay. I noticed more problems on clay, high bite, landing on the down slope of jump, finger on the trigger at that perfect moment to grab that perfect landing, and then pop......driveshaft done.

I upgraded to the dog bones, just because of less restriction, and lighter. Plus other companies run stock steel dog bones on rear, and CVD on front. I also have a shorter shock travel/length from stock.
I will see.......I did send an email to Hot Racing telling them that their outdrive cups should be a tad longer, so there is more material for dog bone to utilize. No response yet.
 
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Tormented1 said:
I just got 81t spur from hot racing but now pinion doesn't reach spur no matter how much i adjust ...any thoughts?
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Yes....take a drill bit and extend the adjustment hole longer (the one that the motor rotates on) for more adjustment.
Just note: drill bit will grab plastic, so take your time.
 

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