What's your LiPo battery of choice?

So I'm running the Hexfly 3200 30c 2s lipo that came with my redcat blackout Xte pro. Great battery so far. But takes over an hour to balance charge it. Even on my SkyRC B6 charger. If I had to buy this battery I wouldn't. As the price of these are thro the roof. When you can get a venom battery at half the cost.

In my amp I run venom 2200 20c 3s Lipos. Great great batteries. They come with a bunch of connectors which is nice. Since stock connector is deans and my amp uses EC3 connectors. I was able to pick up a 2 pack thru eBay for $35. Just normal bashing I can get over 40+ minutes of run time. Full out speed runs I get around 25-30 minutes of run time. And that's with lipo cut off set at 6volts
 
i use the gens ace 2200mah 25c 3s1p packs on my ruckus (stock except 3500kv motor, 60a bl esc, and of course the battery) and it will run my truck for for about an hour without getting excessively hot and i haven't had a single problem with them yet despite running for long periods of time in the rain/snow they are still like new and i like the balance port on them they are way more convenient
 
Dinogy Sport 6000mAh 30C 2S
LHS 5200mAh 70C 2S

The 70C runs a lot harder than the 30C. Was worth the extra money.
Do you find a very noticeable difference between the 30C & 70C? What are some noticeable differences if so...? I've been looking into switching to LiPo and I am very new at all of this!!
 
I started driving with two Venom 4000mAh 20C LiPo batteries. When I started racing I purchased a couple of 4600mAh 90C LiPo batteries. Switching between the batteries I did notice a difference in the acceleration and "punch" of the power system.

Here's some math:
4000mAh (4A) x 20C = 80A continuous discharge
This means that the battery can safely provide 80 Amps of current to the ESC and motor.

4600 mAh (4.6A) x 90C = 414A continuous discharge. Yep. BIG difference.
Higher "C" rates mean that the battery can provide plenty of current to powerful motors (important in racing) but I am not aware of any conventional ESC in racing that can actually draw that kind of current! I've seen ESCs that can draw 150A, and there may be others that draw more, but not 400 Amps! Many "sport" ESC's draw 40, 60, or 80A.

However, as you spend more time in this hobby, you'll discover that the "C" rating is a somewhat nebulous spec and the subject of much discussion. Generally the higher the "C" rating, the lower the internal resistance and the better able the battery is able to deliver higher sustained current (Amps).

Here's a pretty good overview of battery technology and terminology: rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/
 
To add to what @i_r_beej has said, I did not notice a difference between 5000mAh 50C and 3800mAh 30C batteries, on either the stock powertrain and a GoolRC 3100KV brushless setup. It seems that for these two motor/ESC combos it is sufficient to have around 120A of continuous current capacity. If I buy more batteries I'll get some that are 150A-200A because I don't think I can use any more than that.

If your motor is really beefy and you ESC is marginal on temps, you may want to overspec the battery anyway because when the motor draws huge currents in short bursts (e.g. when accelerating from a near-stall), your battery voltage will sag and the ESC capacitors will be taking up the slack. Charging and discharging these capacitors is a big heat source.
 
I started driving with two Venom 4000mAh 20C LiPo batteries. When I started racing I purchased a couple of 4600mAh 90C LiPo batteries. Switching between the batteries I did notice a difference in the acceleration and "punch" of the power system.

Here's some math:
4000mAh (4A) x 20C = 80A continuous discharge
This means that the battery can safely provide 80 Amps of current to the ESC and motor.

4600 mAh (4.6A) x 90C = 414A continuous discharge. Yep. BIG difference.
Higher "C" rates mean that the battery can provide plenty of current to powerful motors (important in racing) but I am not aware of any conventional ESC in racing that can actually draw that kind of current! I've seen ESCs that can draw 150A, and there may be others that draw more, but not 400 Amps! Many "sport" ESC's draw 40, 60, or 80A.

However, as you spend more time in this hobby, you'll discover that the "C" rating is a somewhat nebulous spec and the subject of much discussion. Generally the higher the "C" rating, the lower the internal resistance and the better able the battery is able to deliver higher sustained current (Amps).

Here's a pretty good overview of battery technology and terminology: rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/
I'm gonna have to read this a few times, it's confusing yet at the same time very informative, Thanks!
 
Got a 2 pack of Floureon 6200 40c packs for $62. For the money these packs can't be beat and an hr of run time. Started with Peak Racing 5000 45c. These packs are a little higher quality and deliver better current with 45 minutes of run time and $40 a piece. Just put a True Spec 7200 90c in my racing Sct made by SMC racing. These packs are incredible at $38 a piece. Not necessary for most 2wd applications, but it doubled the run time on my Tekno and no more melting solder and deans plugs. Floureon for bashing. Peak Racing for racing my 2wd, and SMC for racing my 4x4.
 
LiPo's batteries range from all price points to really cheap (in every sense of the word) to crazy expensive and some are better than others obviously. For the price I personally think that SPC and SMC LiPo batteries are a great combo for price / quality.

So, what's your battery of choice? Hopefully this thread can help out someone who is just getting into the hobby or someone who is looking for a different pack to try.
I need a nice budget Lipo that is pretty safe and that could go into the AMP
 
I’ve had good luck with Venom so far. One of my 5000/20c 2s batteries puffed up and they sent me a new one free. Even upgraded me to a 25c at no charge. Great customer service!
 
I’ve had good luck with Venom so far. One of my 5000/20c 2s batteries puffed up and they sent me a new one free. Even upgraded me to a 25c at no charge. Great customer service!

Yeah Venom's rock, I have a 20c 4000 mah I've had for 4 years. Still going strong. Also love the universal connector. They are more expensive, but worth it in the end (and as @zukicidal mentioned, the warranty... gotta love it!).
 
Hello. I'm new to the RC world and just bought a brushed 2wd Ruckus 1/10 scale. The stock reaction battery, lipo 2s 1800
mah only lasts 5 mins at full power. So I bought a 2s 30c 5000mah reaction battery and its amazing how much more power
and run time (20-30 mins.) you get for under $40. I thought other new people might want to hear about a fairly inexpensive improvement. Can't say enough good things about the 1/18th scale Ruckus trucks as well, for what we put them through.
 
i am also looking to upgrade to lipo on my 2wd brushless ruckus

i've narrowed it down to dynamite reaction, gens ace, or venom
 
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I run a 2s Li-po from Hacker. It's made in Germany and has a battery life indicator on the side so you can see if it's at 100%, 60%, 30% or flat

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