Metal gearing

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mattyd4201taim

mattyd4201taim

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135
Location
Maine
So I recently updated my gearing to the Ecx Metal gears. And I don't know if it's just me but is it supposed to make a clank sound when stopping and braking and slowly starting off? Should I put a grease on them?
 
mattyd4201taim said:
So I recently updated my gearing to the Ecx Metal gears. And I don't know if it's just me but is it supposed to make a clank sound when stopping and braking and slowly starting off? Should I put a grease on them?
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Keep in mind I'm running a brushless castle creations combo 5700kv with stock everything but the metal gears and front and rear shocks.
 
No. I have 2 sets of the metal gears installed in 2 circuits. No noise at all. Sounds like you have too much clearance somewhere, possibly the pinion to spur isn't set properly. Check that first, if not then check everything in the drivetrain, even the axles. Something is loose or worn somewhere. And you should grease the gears. I light coat is all that's needed. Too much will cause binding.
 
Steve g said:
No. I have 2 sets of the metal gears installed in 2 circuits. No noise at all. Sounds like you have too much clearance somewhere, possibly the pinion to spur isn't set properly. Check that first, if not then check everything in the drivetrain, even the axles. Something is loose or worn somewhere. And you should grease the gears. I light coat is all that's needed. Too much will cause binding.
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Ok cool. Would some bike grease work ok? I put a little bit of clipper oil from a beard trimmer. I figured it couldn't hurt? And I kept the pinion gear in place when I still had the stock plastic spur. I had it set up so the pinion wasn't fully engaged to the spur so it wouldn't strip. Should I fully have the metal spur intact to the pinion?
 
You have a metal spur? If so, you would hear a faint clack. I thought you just meant metal tranny gears. You want 4 thousands of an inch of clearance between pinion and spur. I cut a piece of paper and feed it into the gears to get it set right. So recheck it. As for grease, any is better than none. Some use white lithium, some super tacky red, I use marine grease. But not on the pinion and spur, only inside the gearbox.
 
Steve g said:
You have a metal spur? If so, you would hear a faint clack. I thought you just meant metal tranny gears. You want 4 thousands of an inch of clearance between pinion and spur. I cut a piece of paper and feed it into the gears to get it set right. So recheck it. As for grease, any is better than none. Some use white lithium, some super tacky red, I use marine grease. But not on the pinion and spur, only inside the gearbox.
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K thanks! i messed around with the slipper And it's a little better. yes got the hot racing 87t which is like the stock only metal. I was told to maybe get something with less t on the spur and pinion but new to this so not sure what route to go.
 
Did you loosen the 2 bolts that hold the motor to the motor plate to adjust the gear mesh? The spur gear and slipper clutch won't affect the gear mesh. The motor can slide a ittle to accommodate different size gears. Having proper gear mesh is critical to longevity of the gears and even the motor. Too tight will create strain and heat, causing the motor to over heat. Too loose and it'll strip or break teeth. Did whoever told you to go smaller on the pinion and spur mean only the pinion? Wouldn't see a reason for regular "bashing" or normal driving to drop down in the spur gear. Normally you drop down a tooth or 2 in the pinion if you are overheating the motor, or if you just want more acceleration and less top speed. Always a good idea to keep and eye on motor and esc temps. If you can't touch it for 5 seconds, it's too hot. A temp gun would be good to have, but you can just use your finger too
 
Ok. And ya I had to move the motor so accommodate the wheelie bar mounts i can take it apart and take pics i don't know if they'll do justice. And before when I was running the stock plastic the motor and esc would get warm but not overheating warm. Il most likely get a heat gun though.
 
The slipper nut tightness varies from car to car. I have 2 circuits that were both bone stock, and 1 had a 1/4 turn difference to be the same as the other. Normally you would start at 2 turns out from full tight, but with your set up it might be closer to 1.25. You want the slipper to be able to slip under full throttle launches from a complete stop. Sometimes it's hard to hear. Hard to explain , you might want to check out YouTube. To set the gear mesh between pinion and spur, loosen the 2 motor screws. Then with the wheels up, spin the spur slowly and stick a small strip of normal paper (note pad). Push the motor so the paper is tight between the gears and conforms to the gears. Then tighten the motor down with the paper in so it stays that way. Check several spots on the spur, sometimes there may be a tight spot, but that's more common with plastic spurs. With these ecxs having a plastic motor mount, you will need to check the gear mesh often. A hard landing on the back can jolt the motor just enough to cause an issue. I check mine every other time I use it.
 
Since going to metal gearing i feel like the esc gets way to hot. Motor is fine doesn't get hot. Maybe I have plugs from the motor to the esc is wrong? I'm stumped
 
In that case you would want to go up in gearing, unfortunately these castle setups are a bit confusing because the motor is willing to take almost any amount of amps you put though it but the esc I think they are around 70 amps.
I you were to have wires from the esc wrong something will not work most likely not even driving at all with throttle.
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What I would do: get a set of pinions (check your motor if 1/8 inch or 5mm shaft) and how ever many teeth are on your current pinion maybe one pinion 2 teeth more and one 2 teeth less. Just play around and get the temps you like. But depending on your car type 5700kv motors are usually a little high for 1/10 cars but it shouldn’t really matter with castle.
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However changing pinion sizes changes top speed, acceleration, TEMPS, and torque.
Tinny pinions will heat up a brushless motor far more than a pinion that is too big (it only counts if the car still moves) in the same amount of time they are run and of course in same conditions.

Standard English: Most of this useful information is between the DYI brackets above:D
 
KyleRC said:
In that case you would want to go up in gearing, unfortunately these castle setups are a bit confusing because the motor is willing to take almost any amount of amps you put though it but the esc I think they are around 70 amps.
I you were to have wires from the esc wrong something will not work most likely not even driving at all with throttle.
————————
What I would do: get a set of pinions (check your motor if 1/8 inch or 5mm shaft) and how ever many teeth are on your current pinion maybe one pinion 2 teeth more and one 2 teeth less. Just play around and get the temps you like. But depending on your car type 5700kv motors are usually a little high for 1/10 cars but it shouldn’t really matter with castle.
————————
However changing pinion sizes changes top speed, acceleration, TEMPS, and torque.
Tinny pinions will heat up a brushless motor far more than a pinion that is too big (it only counts if the car still moves) in the same amount of time they are run and of course in same conditions.

Standard English: Most of this useful information is between the DYI brackets above:D
Click to expand...

ok.. what if I went back to the plastic spur? I didn't have any problem with the plastic gearing only when I switched to the metal gears and the metal spur
 
Are the bearings stock with the black rubber seals or the metal shield ones?

Anyway the stock ones aren’t very good you might want to look for a good set. I don’t really know any good sellers because most of my cars are pretty new now. I just reuse the left over ones I had from past years. Ever since I stopped going in water I would only lose a bearing every other few races they do last longer.
 
Awesome I'll look into fast eddys! And literally sound like there's a tiny piece of metal or rock clanking around when spinning the left wheel.
 

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