Overheating ESC and Motor Issues

J

jamesx65

Active Member
Messages
27
Hello to all,
I have a ECX Boost running a Castle Creations Sidewinder 3 w/ a 5700kV brushless motor. I’m experiencing very bad overheating issues. I can no longer go full throttle without the power cutting in and out. Then the ESC cuts power completely and the only thing that works is steering. (I’ve noticed a red blinking light on the ESC when this happens). I’m assuming most of the issues if not all the issues I’m having are to do with the motor and/or ESC overheating. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! :)
 
What battery are you using and what are It’s specs?
Also, what size pinion and spur gear are you trying to run?
Flashing red has to do with a calibration issue, recalibrate the transmitter to the esc.
 
To re-calibrate, plug battery into esc...turn on transmitter(be sure transmitter adjustments set at max and trim is at neutral position)....hold full throttle...power on esc. Wait for initialize beeps, then go to full reverse...wait for confirmation beeps, then release throttle to neutral position. Esc will confirm...then turn off esc. Turn back on esc to verify you have full throttle, brake/reverse and neutral working properly.
 
2
DantheMan said:
What battery are you using and what are It’s specs?
Also, what size pinion and spur gear are you trying to run?
Flashing red has to do with a calibration issue, recalibrate the transmitter to the esc.
Click to expand...
2S LiPo and 87T Spur w/ 23T Pinion
 
Start with making sure the Esc and transmitter are calibrated. Next...look at your motor adjustment...make sure it is adjusted for spacing away from the Spur gear so you “just begin to notice” the click,click sound between the gears. If this issue still occurs aft knowing these are good....my advice is...gear lower on your pinion. ******(you will find when using google search that the ESC you are using “is sensitive”...(it likes “light loads”). Changing to a 20 tooth or 19 tooth...perhaps even a 18/17 tooth will fix the issue.
~it’s worth it’s weight in gold to say, that a better ESC would handle the higher load much better. (The esc you are using is sensitive, you cannot ask it to do too much, your pinion gear is probably too big, drop down to a 20 tooth.
 
DantheMan said:
Start with making sure the Esc and transmitter are calibrated. Next...look at your motor adjustment...make sure it is adjusted for spacing away from the Spur gear so you “just begin to notice” the click,click sound between the gears. If this issue still occurs aft knowing these are good....my advice is...gear lower on your pinion. ******(you will find when using google search that the ESC you are using “is sensitive”...(it likes “light loads”). Changing to a 20 tooth or 19 tooth...perhaps even a 18/17 tooth will fix the issue.
~it’s worth it’s weight in gold to say, that a better ESC would handle the higher load much better. (The esc you are using is sensitive, you cannot ask it to do too much, your pinion gear is probably too big, drop down to a 20 tooth.
Click to expand...
Will do. I don’t know if it’s a transmitter issue though. Although the light on it is flashing so I think that means the batteries are low and maybe that’s why it cuts out. Originally I had a 19 or 20 and the that one got stripped so I put a 23 on. In terms of top speed how will going to a 17 or 18 be affected. Are the wheelies more or less frequent?
 
An esc like the mamba x or better, would not default in this situation, and could handle the load. The castle creations esc you listed is sensitive and you cannot load
 
With a 5700 kv motor.:::”it will still do wheelies”....but based on my knowledge, it will not “wheelie” until half throttle. (This is a lot of speed..more than 35mph). This is why I suggest a 3800-4600kv motor:
 
I don’t have a lot of money to be spending it on a new motor and/or ESC. I was hoping for an easier cheaper solution. Just so that it won’t overheat and cut off power once in awhile.
 
Well...answers are simple- change the motor/pinion gear to smaller..17-18tooth.
...be sure that the transmitter and esc are communicating properly...recalibrate.
 
So it worked fine on the 19/20t pinion but when you changed to 23t it started overheating? I think the answer is in the question.
Change it back to 19/20t.
It is literally like changing gears in a real car. The higher the gear(tooth count) the more load you are putting on the motor. You cant take off in 4th gear, but its easy in 1st.
The lower the tooth count the less load you have on your motor.
But on the other side of the coin, the more torque you have going through the transmission.
 
Last edited:
Real_sparky said:
So it worked fine on the 19/20t pinion but when you changed to 23t it started overheating? I think the answer is in the question.
Change it back to 19/20t.
It is literally like changing gears in a real car. The higher the gear(tooth count) the more load you are putting on the motor. You cant take off in 4th gear, but its easy in 1st.
The lower the tooth count the less load you have on your motor.
But on the other side of the coin, the more torque you have going through the transmission.
Click to expand...
No it was still overheating before. But I’ve fixed the problem with an ESC fan. It does wonders to both the ESC and motor!
 

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