TEAM STAB RC Amp Build

Brake Weight said:
That’s the longer 550 motor? Do you have a pic of the rear end? I was thinking of putting one of those motors but wasn’t sure how far it would stick out.
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The motor fits just fine. I used a body reamer to make a hole in the gear cover to fit the longer shaft. Some people just cut the shaft. I have ordered the RPM gear cover. I am told it fits over the Titan shaft. I hope it does.

-MP
 

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OK, gotcha. I have an RPM cover and never put it on but if I remember right it has a removable cover to adjust the slipper. Wouldn’t help for the motor shaft though. I’ll see if I can find it later.

I also read somewhere yesterday that RPM makes a rear number that can cover the motor leads from damage. I believe it was on this website actually.
 
Quick update for anyone who cares,

Our Amp MT kit is now going to live as a brushless tribute to my Tamiya The Falcon buggy I had as a kid. I've got the Amp DB body to paint up and the wing, some Falcon decals on the way, and I really like the fit and performance of this VERY reasonably priced ($44 from AliExpress) Hobbywing ESC.motor combo. The waterproof Savox servo and ECX13003 receiver complete a fully waterproof electronics set up.
 

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Nice build. Really liked the body you painted. Is that hobbywing esc programmable? Read somewhere the rtr models are limited. You mentioned a bec, but doesn't seem to be installed. I'm assuming you don't need one, but if you do, the hobbywing ones you mentioned are good. I have 4 now. If you look closely to ones on eBay, the cheap ones are clones, and do not have a capacitor. If you ended up with the one without the cap, as I did with one of mine, you could solder on one, not sure if it would make much of a difference, but I added a 470uf one(overkill I know). Anyways, will be looking forward for what you do with the buggy body.
 
Steve g said:
Nice build. Really liked the body you painted. Is that hobbywing esc programmable? Read somewhere the rtr models are limited. You mentioned a bec, but doesn't seem to be installed. I'm assuming you don't need one, but if you do, the hobbywing ones you mentioned are good. I have 4 now. If you look closely to ones on eBay, the cheap ones are clones, and do not have a capacitor. If you ended up with the one without the cap, as I did with one of mine, you could solder on one, not sure if it would make much of a difference, but I added a 470uf one(overkill I know). Anyways, will be looking forward for what you do with the buggy body.
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Thanks for your interest steve g,

I have a hobbywing bec from ebay that I never installed. Maybe I should learn what they really do, and then I'll install it on this rig or another. The 10BL50-RTR ESC is programmable using the EZ RUN program card that came with my Max 8 ESC. It has 5 or 6 programmable items, F/B/R mode, lipo cut off level, punch, drag brake...can't recall the others just now.

The only issue I have had with this Amp is that the steering sometimes gets stuck all the way in one direction, unless I limit the end points. We're gonna run it at least 2 packs today, and I will likely take it apart and try re fitting the servo horn and making sure it has smooth movement all the way through the steering.

It is nice to have two nice bodies we like. It will likely make them both last longer, sharing the abuse ;)
 
One of the most fun bashes I've had out on a windy hill today. The 10BL50-RTR/3300kv combo is fantastic, especially considering it was $44 shipped. Stayed cool through 10000mAh of 2s lipo. Plenty of zip and ZERO broken parts. Happy days;
 

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Becs are only needed when you have a powerful servo, or multiple servos that need more juice then your esc's bec can produce. I install them even if it's not needed, my theory is it takes some strain off the esc, letting it run a little cooler and hopefully last a little longer. I see you have a savox servo, not sure which one, but it could need the external bec. I'd recommend wiring the hobbywing bec to power the servo and keep your receiver on the esc's bec. I could draw a picture if you need one.
 
Steve g said:
Becs are only needed when you have a powerful servo, or multiple servos that need more juice then your esc's bec can produce. I install them even if it's not needed, my theory is it takes some strain off the esc, letting it run a little cooler and hopefully last a little longer. I see you have a savox servo, not sure which one, but it could need the external bec. I'd recommend wiring the hobbywing bec to power the servo and keep your receiver on the esc's bec. I could draw a picture if you need one.
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Thanks Steve.

The servo is a HV model. I will wire the BEC in because it can only help, I guess.
 
Since that's a high voltage servo, you can power that directly off the battery, no need for the bec. You'll get much more torque from it running on 7.4v rather than 6v.
 
Remove the Red wire from your esc plug and heat shrink it back
Solder in a servo wire(RED/BLACK) or the BEC on Black and red wires on your esc battery plug and plug it in to your RX on the third channel (if your RX can take 7.4v)
Having said all that, your esc has a Bec rating of 6v/3a which should be plenty for that servo to keep up. No point making it more complicated than it needs to be just for the sake of it.
But that receiver won't take 7.4v i think.

You could always solder the red/black from the servo into the power leads going to your esc leaving the Signal wire in the rx
 
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First unplugg the servo from the reciever. Pull the red and black wires out of the servo connector that plugs into your receiver. Use a tiny screw driver or tip of a razor blade to bend the little clip holding it in. Probably have to spread the wires apart about an inch or so first so you can pull them out one at a time. Then plug the connector back into the receiver box with the white or yellowish wire still in it. Then clip the pin connectors off the red and black wires. Then just solder the red and black servo wires to the battery connector of the esc.
 
Steve g said:
First unplugg the servo from the reciever. Pull the red and black wires out of the servo connector that plugs into your receiver. Use a tiny screw driver or tip of a razor blade to bend the little clip holding it in. Probably have to spread the wires apart about an inch or so first so you can pull them out one at a time. Then plug the connector back into the receiver box with the white or yellowish wire still in it. Then clip the pin connectors off the red and black wires. Then just solder the red and black servo wires to the battery connector of the esc.
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Was just in the middle of an edit when you posted Steve :)
 
This thread isn't updating for me. Just saw real sparkys response. He is right it's probably not needed. If this was a big heavy slow crawler with big heavy grippy tires, then you would want all the torque you could get. In this case I would think at 6v it's plenty strong. But it's good to know how In case you do need to do it
 
Thank you sparky and steve,

Good info here, and I'm sure it will come in handy for another build, likely a crawler. For our Amp. I think with the 6V/3A from this ESC, I'll leave it be, as it seems to be doing okay.
 
My brushed HW1080 for my crawler has a setting that you can change the ESC’s servo voltage. Does this brushless have a similar setting?

How long of a run time would you guess to have gotten from that 10,000mAh battery?

The servo sticking left or right is likely ‘browning out’ from lack of power to it. Basically starving from thmy ESC because all power it being sent to the motor at that point.
 
Brake Weight said:
My brushed HW1080 for my crawler has a setting that you can change the ESC’s servo voltage. Does this brushless have a similar setting?

How long of a run time would you guess to have gotten from that 10,000mAh battery?
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Hi Brake Weight,

The 10BL50 ESC does not have a switchable BEC like the 1080 brushed does. It is 6V/3A only. I found that the servo sticking was being caused by the horn placement and trim. I had to reposition the horn so it could not travel to far to the left. I'm not sure about the run time/10000mAh question. I've only run 8000mAh in our Amp. The runtimes are really long, but I've not times them.
 
OK. Good deal on the servo fix. I put an RPM saver delete in my Boost and it’s a lot quicker. Or at least seems that way.

I may try to convert the Amps my kids have to brushless and run some 5000mAh packs I have and don’t use myself very often. They’d likely get tired of them before the packs run to LVC.
 

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