1:18 Ruckus Differential Problems and Upgrades Discussion

I agree with slick. I no longer use the 3racing diff, because the destroyed my outdrive pinion. See my earlier post.

I switched to Vaterra Kalahari diffs. The are full metal and fits. The set also includes the drive shaft pinions. No more plastic in the diffs. Unfortunately you need to buy some additional parts to complete the diffs.

Part numbers are :
2x VTR212003 --- Diff house and pinions
1x VTR212010 --- Diff outdrives , not included in VTR212003
1x VTR215000 --- complete screw set for Vaterra Kalahari, includes the screws for the diff house.

Losi 1/14 Mini Desert Truck and Losi 1/14 Mini Rally using the same diffs.

I still use the HPI A557 wheel Axles. I also switch the dogbones to HPI H72069 6x47mm(from RS4 Sport 2). They fits on the wheel axles site, but need some work at the ball to fits the Vaterra outdrive. But this is not realy a problem.

My son run this setup now for 10 sessions with 2s LiPo with stock motor and it still looks good.

I have the Vaterra Kalahari and the Kemora...both the same truck, just different bodies and tires. Also Losi now runs this truck too. It looks exactly like the Vaterra truck. So those parts may be options as well.

I can attest to the strength in the Vaterra Diffs. Been running 3s with the stock brushless in my Kemora for over a year and have never broken one.
 
I'm new to the rc world, and have had the same issue with the front diff wearing out on my son's ecx ruckus. I purchased the vaterra diffs and various related parts, but have a question about how to assemble it. I looked at the exploded diagram from vaterra's site, and it shows a screw going through the spacers and gears to the outdrive. In that configuration the diff doesn't fit together right, so my question is if the screw should go through the gear to the outdrive first then the spacer on top of the screw.

Also what size dogbone (ball size I guess) fits in the vaterra diff outdrive? I think I may have to go the route of using the female end of the telescoping axle with a glued in dogbone.

Thanks for the help! I've not had so much fun in years, but I'm realizing I have a ton yet to learn.
 
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I'm new to the rc world, and have had the same issue with the front diff wearing out on my son's ECX ruckus. I purchased the vaterra diffs and various related parts, but have a question about how to assemble it. I looked at the exploded diagram from vaterra's site, and it shows a screw going through the spacers and gears to the outdrive. In that configuration the diff doesn't fit together right, so my question is if the screw should go through the gear to the outdrive first then the spacer on top of the screw.

Also what size dogbone (ball size I guess) fits in the vaterra diff outdrive? I think I may have to go the route of using the female end of the telescoping axle with a glued in dogbone.

Thanks for the help! I've not had so much fun in years, but I'm realizing I have a ton yet to learn.


Have you figured this out? I bought two that came assembled and one is not installed yet, I could take it apart and take a pic if you need.
 
Have you figured this out? I bought two that came assembled and one is not installed yet, I could take it apart and take a pic if you need.

Yes, the diagram is confusing, but the screws seem to go in before the spacer. I've got it all assembled, just looking for some dogbones. I got the HPI A557 wheel axles, and it seemed with my calipers that a 6x50mm might work, so I ordered the HPI A552 dogbones. We'll see if they fit.
 
Yes, the diagram is confusing, but the screws seem to go in before the spacer. I've got it all assembled, just looking for some dogbones. I got the HPI A557 wheel axles, and it seemed with my calipers that a 6x50mm might work, so I ordered the HPI A552 dogbones. We'll see if they fit.


The balls will be tight in the diff you may need to grind them a little. I am using sportwerks SWK4064 they are 5x50mm pin to pin. They are loose in the A557 but I haven't noticed any extra wear.
 
I agree with slick. I no longer use the 3racing diff, because the destroyed my outdrive pinion. See my earlier post.

I switched to Vaterra Kalahari diffs. The are full metal and fits. The set also includes the drive shaft pinions. No more plastic in the diffs. Unfortunately you need to buy some additional parts to complete the diffs.

Part numbers are :
2x VTR212003 --- Diff house and pinions
1x VTR212010 --- Diff outdrives , not included in VTR212003
1x VTR215000 --- complete screw set for Vaterra Kalahari, includes the screws for the diff house.

Losi 1/14 Mini Desert Truck and Losi 1/14 Mini Rally using the same diffs.

I still use the HPI A557 wheel Axles. I also switch the dogbones to HPI H72069 6x47mm(from RS4 Sport 2). They fits on the wheel axles site, but need some work at the ball to fits the Vaterra outdrive. But this is not realy a problem.

My son run this setup now for 10 sessions with 2s LiPo with stock motor and it still looks good.


Thanks a ton for the part numbers. Could you possibly detail how you modified the dog bones to fit the outdrive?
 
Thanks a ton for the part numbers. Could you possibly detail how you modified the dog bones to fit the outdrive?

Sorry for the delay, i'm on vacation at the moment.

I did some "Dremel" work at the balls of the bones, until the fits to the outdrives.

Here is a picture. Left site is the original and the right site is after my work.
IMG_20160822_102548_HDR.jpg

You can see, that prepared ball is significant smaller.
best
Gidien
 
Awesome thanks.

Last question considering parts should be here by next Monday: what grease are you packing the inside and outside of the diff with??
 
I use marine grease. Just a dab is enough, I wouldn't pack them. Like as much as in my pic a page back. And inside the diff I would use diff oil not grease, at least if you want an open diff. I use 5k diff fluid normally but these diffs came assembled so they have whatever they came with.
 
For inside i used 5k diff fluid too, for outside i used motocycle teflon chain grease spray. The motocycle spray adheres very well to the gears, i also use it in my other cars with open diffs, where you can't use diff fluid, and it works very well.
 
I've successfully replaced the diff, but the problem I am experiencing now is simply that the sportswerks dogbones are too short. They keep popping out. Other than that everything fits together great.
 
I've successfully replaced the diff, but the problem I am experiencing now is simply that the sportswerks dogbones are too short. They keep popping out. Other than that everything fits together great.

How much play is there? You can put an o-ring inside, between the dogbone and the cup, this usually helps alot.
 
There is quite a lot of play, it really would be better if it was 2-3 mm longer. The O-ring idea is interesting. I also can put some shims in the hub to push the axle cup closer.
 
I've successfully replaced the diff, but the problem I am experiencing now is simply that the sportswerks dogbones are too short. They keep popping out. Other than that everything fits together great.

Amazing amount of info. Has anyone figured out if there is a dog bone that truely fits?
Thanks
 
I just got around to swapping the front diff yesterday and ran into the same thing. The rear it works perfectly but the front axle can fall out at full steering lock. I had some hpi 86036 that are 6x52mm and ground one ball but they are slightly too long.

stealthychalupa, have you done anything with the a552 that's what I was looking at trying next since they are 6x50mm
 
I just got around to swapping the front diff yesterday and ran into the same thing. The rear it works perfectly but the front axle can fall out at full steering lock. I had some hpi 86036 that are 6x52mm and ground one ball but they are slightly too long.

stealthychalupa, have you done anything with the a552 that's what I was looking at trying next since they are 6x50mm

I think the a552 would likely be the right length, but they are discontinued and the order I placed for them a while back was cancelled. I think you can squeeze the axle cup 1.5mm closer with shims, which may help but I don't have the right size shims to properly test it. What we really need is the correct length dogbone. Everything else works out so well.

UPDATE: I did find the a552 on ebay just now so ordered a pair. Seems like it's the last one. We'll see if it works.

UPDATE 2: Seems like maybe this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19554 is 50mm. The reviews say it is 49mm end to end. Of course it is out of stock.
 
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